Saturday, 20 October 2007

Day in the Life - Condom to Éauze

Just because it seems like the type of thing one does when on such trips. Probably interesting in some fashion, I suppose. It´s a pretty typical day as far as the Chemin after Moissac goes. I also had some photos to go with this but they are now on my laptop and not the camera so will have to wait until I finish walking in November.

So, here we go:
0630 - Alarm goes. Wake up and start packing. Wake Petra (one of my walking companions) who wants to walk with me for 1km to say goodbye.
0700 - Breakfast. Cornflakes (cereal is always a bonus in France... take it when you can get it!), juice, bread w/butter and jams.
0745 - Set off. Petra and I walk through the waking town of Condom. At this hour the buildings have a dawn-blue tinge and a fog is beginning to set in. It gives an apprehensive mood to the beginning of the day´s walk which suits my blue one at losing the last of my companions.
0805 - Petra and I say sad goodbyes and hug, promising to stay in touch (she wants a copy of her interview).
0915 - Reach a bridge that apparently marks the ´1000 kms to go´point. Photo. Stop 500m later for a pee and some chocolate and a pensive cigarette. Water.
1030 - Stop for water and a couple of dried apricots and an apple.
1105 - Reach Montreal sur Gers. Buy a baguette for lunch and fill up water bottles at the village fountain. Surprised by my speed - 16km in a little over three hours.
1150 - Path moves onto what appears to be old railway tracks. It is straight and flat - nice!!
1200 - After a bridge the path bends around and under itself. Immediately it emerges into an avenue of Tolkienian enchantment - an avenue of great trees stretches for a kilometre or so, corn fields to one side, a beech forest to the other . I stand for a couple of minutes in awe. ´Here is a good place for lunch´, I think.
1205 - ... And do. Lunch consists of the baguette, some stinky, washed rind cheese, and a paté du Gascony dArmagnac, followed by some more apricots and chocolate. Very nice, particularly the paté. I eat topless, hoping the midday sun will dry my shirt. As I am finishing another pilgrim (Marc, from Belgium) walks past, wishing me ´Bon apetit!´.
1245 - Set off again. My feet always take 5mins to get used to the shock of walking after lunch, so it´s slow going until then.
1300 - Path bends into some large vineyards... vines full... hmmmmm...
1305 - Hands and face sticky from grape juice...
1315 - Eaten too many grapes and feeling very full. Burp a ´Bonjour´to a farmer who eyes me suspiciously.
1330 - Pass another pilgrim. He is sitting at ease, lying back blowing clouds of smoke drawn from his after-lunch pipe. Bernard is from some little village north of Paris (too fast... didn´t catch it). He has two daughters, both of whom are presently in Australia. He is shocked by how far I have already walked today and goes on to describe himself as an "escargot". I leave feeling happy at the progress of my French.
1415 - Climb a small hill to a very old hameau (hamlet). Fill my water bottles in the cemetery. Right knee hurting inexplicably.
1425 - Path is again on old railway beds. It even passes an old railway station (Bretagne dArmagnac), now a house. Book says I have around 7km to go.
1530 - Stop for water, chocolate, apricots, and an annoyed cigarette. Knee hurts even more, and the whole leg is heavy. Path still on railway bed.
1615 - Longest 7km I have ever walked, felt more like 10km (someone later reports that the book is wrong). Path emerges suddenly into to Éauze. Find the gite, a bed, have a shower and wash my clothes before shopping for tomorrow´s food.
1750 - Sit down in Café de France in the town square for a beer - well earned after 33km walking. Knee now fine (had been for the last km or so). Odd. Lots of writing.
1900 - Dinner with Jean-Claude, Jean-Claude (2) and cross-eyed wife who talks to herself mid-conversation. Have walked to th same towns as these three for 5ish days and shared some good (if limited) conversations and good meals.
2130 - Call Abi. Very Tired.
2145 - Bed.

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