Parting Thoughts on McLeod Ganj/Dharamsala

In my first post on McLeod Ganj I spoke about the contrast in what we might call tourist demography or type between here and Rishikesh. When I was writing it (and my fieldnotes) I was very conscious that much of what I was saying was of a comparative tone; 'Rishikesh was like so, but McLeod Ganj is not'. I was also conscious that much of what I was writing had a faintly negative tone to it. This was intentional as it was what I was seeing and feeling, but I think in parting I would like to concentrate upon some of the more positive aspects.
The thing that really struck me was the draw the Dalai Lama has, not so much as a 'thing' you come and see, but as a person you come and hear from, or more specifically, hear teachings from. Although, for many the opportunity to see up close someone who, for them, is an inspiring and spiritually wise figure was also significant. In fact, every tourist I met had come to McLeod Ganj to either hear or see the Dalai Lama, in some form or another. I think this says a few things about spiritual tourism, not to mention about the status of the Dalai Lama in Western popular culture. Firstly, tourists are coming with the desire to hear and often to learn. Speaking and listening, part of sociality, contribute to the group of behaviours that mark us as human (at least for the time being). Whether out of curiosity or the desire for spiritual education, tourists come here wanting more than to see a sight, take a picture, buy a hat, and go. This comes back to the notion I spoke of in my parting words on Rishikesh - that the people one meets here are, by and large, trying to be more spiritually healthy and to ultimately become better people. They are coming to look after themselves, to find renewal from which they can return to everyday life with greater strength or better practice. That they do come says that whatever they are finding here is either not available at home (the failure of Western secular 'life' to adequately deal with itself) or must be tapped at the source (albeit displaced in some circumstances).
Secondly, despite so many Western tourists coming to learn from the Dalai Lama and Tibetan Buddhism, most do not consider themselves Buddhist. My immediate impression from this was that it was indicative of how normalised Tibetan Buddhism is in the West (though not so much as to be considered culturally normal). This most is most prominently displayed in the types of travellers (I now see that I use that term interchangeably with 'tourists' - a problem perhaps) here. They are 'normal' in that one sees all types here - well funded and budget, old and young, mainstream and fringe. The presence of Tibetan Buddhism in Western popular culture results in it having a broad based appeal, not just for those interested in studying its intricacies but also for those wanting to 'hear what Buddhism has to say' about life, the universe, and everything. A useful set of tools, perhaps.
Finally, the persona of the Dalai Lama himself is huge. Many speak of him wit reverence and love, which I personally found refreshing and very pleasant. How many other world leaders do we speak of in positive terms. Most Australians, Americans, and British I chatted with were thoroughly fed up with and often disgusted at the decisions and agendas of their leaders. For many, the thought that it was possible to be a world leader (though not a political one as such) and promote peace, harmony, and happiness for all is a very comforting thought indeed. I feel likewise, and think that our present crop of political power brokers could do with some lessons, though perhaps they simply wouldn't listen. Yet, in addition to this, there can be no denying that the man has a contagious and very genuine 'happiness' and charisma. Seeing him up close (Jess and I got within a few meters as he passed by on the way to a puja) is a special experience, perhaps because of his commitment to such peaceful and loving ideals. I'm still thinking about this one though and am not yet ready to fully comment on it. In any case, that notion of undying commitment to world peace is most heartening, it's just a shame that so many don't actually want it. Who would have thought I could use the lyrics of a band I dislike (Megadeth), but they fit here: "Peace sells, but who's buying?"
Few, it seems, apart from some of the world's travellers.